You wake up among lakes of an impossible blue, with the aroma of fresh-made chocolate drifting through the streets. Bariloche is the Andean Switzerland: in winter, Cerro Catedral cloaks itself in snow and becomes the largest ski resort in South America; in summer, the Circuito Chico hands you lookouts, myrtle forests and ice-cold waters to swim in. The perfect finale is a fondue facing Nahuel Huapi, while the sun slips behind the cordillera.